The origins of this boat date back to 1094, written in the records of the Doge Vitale Falier. Paintings and drawings from the late 1400s and early 1500s document their prevalence in society, though not as elaborate as the 1800s. Today there are approximately 500 gondola in Venice, all controlled by the society. This is a small number compared to the 10,000+ which were used in the late 1500s. Granted there was no vaporetto or taxi, so they were quite necessary. But a ride in one didn’t cost 150 Euro, either. Below is the Bacino Orseolo, Gondola Parking just off San Marco. It’s a great place to get pictures. It’s design is also of necessity, the ability to travel in shallow waters, and the ability to be controlled by one person using a single oar. These dictated the overall design, which has been more or less the same since the 1600s. The original gondola has a small enclosure, to keep the occupant hidden from the weather as well as the peering eyes around town. Initially they belonged only to the wealthy, as you must be able to afford not only the gondola, but the gondolier. (A bit like today!) One of the last private gondolas was that of Peggy Guggenheim. Winter or summer, almost every visitor wants to have this experience.
Little symbolizes Venice like the Gondola. The front of the gondola has the “rebbi”, which looks like teeth of metal. These represent the six sestiere (areas) of Venice. The tooth on the back of the rebbi represents the island of Giudecca. The gondolier (the guy who rows the boat, though today there is at least one woman gondolier) have their own union and the guild for the production of the gondola was written in 1607 the “mariegola” of the gondola builders. It contains the rules for the squero (the gondola companies). The builder is known as the squerarolo. The weight of the gondoliere is factor in the construction of a gondola. It requires 9 different types of wood and is still made without modern tools with the timbers still bent using fire. The Venetian Foot, rather than metric is used to measure because it is more exacting for producing the gondola.
If you want to have a gondola made, fortunately there are still a couple of firms who produce gondolas. It takes about 500-600 hours of work and the wood must be perfect and dried naturally in the open air for several years. And there’s still a demand for them, the Venetian Hotels in both Las Vegas and Macau have authentic gondolas. Check out D.co Tramontin & Figli, established in 1884. www.tramontingondole.itGoogle
Ca’ Rezzonico is a prominent Palazzo on the Grand Canal in Venice. With a rich history from 1649, it is probably best known today as the residence of Robert Browning, the poet who died there in 1889. Like all the Palazzo of Venice, they are lovely old ladies who have seen a lot of changes. Each time they have been bought or inherited the new owner would remodel, redecorate and reconfigure the rooms. It was commissioned in 1649 as the house of Filippo Bon who did not live to see the completion of his family home. With the demise of the older Bon, the family fell upon hard times and Giambattista Rezzonico purchased it, leaving us with the name even today, though it changed hands many times. It was completed over 100 years later in 1756, mostly according to the original designs. But as you may imagine, styles changed in the 100 years and the design was “updated” by the architect. It has many similarities with Ca’ Pesaro which also was designed by Baldassarre Longhena. Longhena is credited with the design of these two palazzo along with Chiesa (church) Santa Maria delle Salute. Giambattista Rezzonico was not a Venetian Noble, he did however have plenty of money and Venice needed to replenish their bank accounts after a war with Turkey. So always the practical, the Venetians dubbed him “Noble” and wrote his name in the Libro d’Oro (Golden Book) in exchange for a large donation to the Serene Republic (Venice). Obviously everyone accepted this form of rising to the top, proved in 1758 when Rezzonico’s son Carlo was elected Pope (Clement XIII) and when in the same year, his other son, Lodovico, married a true noble Venetian, the Marchese Faustina Savorgnan. Note the similarities to Ca’ Pesaro on the right. Sadly the Rezzonico family died without direct heirs in the early 1800s, and the palazzo became a first a Jesuit College but later claimed by another Venetian family the Pindemonte-Giovanelli family who sold all the furnishings of the palazzo, including many works of art leaving only the frescos. The palazzo was acquired by Count Ladislao Zelinsky who ultimately sold it to Robert Barrett Browning, the son of Robert Browning. Again it was sold, this time to another Count, Lionello von Hierschel de Minerbi who owned it until 1935, when, unfortunately he ran out of money as well. After this, the City of Venice took ownership to use as a museum of the 18th Century art collection which had overflowed the Correr Museum. Fortunately the city, through local and state funds as well as generous contributions from art patrons around the world, has been able to reconstruct the rooms which gives you a view of the luxuries of life in the Serene Republic. VenetianBeadShop’s Ca’ Rezzonico Necklace Pictured Above.Google
The discussions on how to best control the traffic in this narrowest stretch of the winding canal continue, in official meetings, between residents, and is rehashed daily in the newpapers. Vested interest abound on all sides, with no one wanting to give an centimeter (literally). And I can’t picture the Grand Canal without all these wonderful boats moving through. So as the debates continue, and time goes on, the less likely anything will change. When you live in a city where the water is your street and the boat is your mode of transportation, then you can understand how it’s difficult to change as well as how an accident can happen. However, to get a real sense of the traffic, watch the video made by a local, Manuel Vecchina, who made this video shortly after the accident. Watch Video: Traffic on the Canal And then he proceeded to itemize the traffic in the 10 hour period of the time lapse video:
1615 Times a Vaporetto stopped at the Rialto to drop off or pick up passengers
700 Taxis traveled under the Rialto Bridge
216 Transport boats delivered or picked up goods, laundry, merchandise, food, etc
209 Gondole went under the Rialto Bridge
168 Private boats, of all sizes
39 Alilaguna Airport Shuttles arrived and departed
18 Vaporetto “Bus dell’art”
13 Ambulances came through the area
17 Police Boats patrolled
2 Fire Boats
The film condenses 10 hours into 4 minutes, so the boats aren’t moving nearly as fast as it appears. In fact the speed is limited to about 5mph. Hope you’ll enjoy this glimpse of Venice.You might enjoy:Incident on the Grand CanalOur video of a trip on the Grand Canal.
UPDATE on the problem with Gypsies!This summer has seen more “gypsies” in Venice than normal and they have gotten progressively more aggressive. Their newest business ventures are selling vaporetto tickets, baggage handling and tourist information. But there’s a bit of a hitch in these new ventures. (1) They are selling used vaporetto (imob) tickets they have recovered from the trash, so totally worthless. (2) They charge 5-15 Euro promising to take your baggage all the way to your hotel only to vanish a short distance from where you started.As you paid them in advance. Well you are truly left holding the bag (yours, we hope). And if you entrusted camera bags or computer bags, those may disappear as well. (3) Selling tourist information, well maybe disinformation, since they actually know little about Venice.
The “helpful” baggage handlers are positioned at the foot of the Calatrava Bridge (Piazalle Roma across the canal) and they are competing with Italians looking for this work as well. And they can be found as you descend from your train at the train station, offering their services.However, unless your hotel is very close to the train station, getting over this bridge will not really help you. You’d be much better off taking the vaporetto to the closest stop to your hotel.
Know before your Go: Search on line, buy a map, but know where your hotel is. Print out a copy of the name and location (and telephone number) of the hotel. Know which vaporetto gets you closest to the hotel.and the vaporetto stop name. (All hotels will have information online about how to arrive, print that out and have with you.)
My favorite Venice Guide Book: Venice, Knopf Guides ISBN 0-679-74918-7 The best part is the fold out center which names each of the palazzo along the canal. A little Caution: This summer has brought some new nuances to traveling in Venice. So here’s your heads up if you are traveling. Last week in Venice is a good example of everything that can happen.An unsuspecting Japanese tourist had her purse lightened by 35,000 Euro, all in Yen, which for sure makes finding the suspects a bit easier as they will need to exchange to Euro to make it worth their while. This happened near the train station, Santa Lucia. Hint: hanging out in the train station is never a good thing as you are always a target, in any town! So if you must wait, find a café, spend a few Euro to improve your chances of not being subject to (1) pickpocketing and (2) fall prey to a really good scammer. A few years ago, in Milano as we waited for a train, we spotted a young American girl who had been “befriended” by a very good looking young man. Right before our eyes, she left her entire earthly possessions with this young man and went into the tourist office. As soon as she entered the doorway, the young man scurried away with her belongings. Imagine her panic when she came out of the station with absolutely nothing. Fortunately, she did have her passport, but little else other than the clothes on her back. Hint: Don’t give your valuables to a stranger anywhere – no matter how friendly they appear. Remember this when you are traveling. Little things, like someone who offers to carry your briefcase up the stairs at a train station. Sounds like a really helpful person and maybe there are some saints in training around – but imagine your dismay at the top of the stairs when this helpful person has disappeared with your computer and belongings. Il Gazzettino also reported they arrested a couple of guys dressed as monks in the traditional cappuccino and with a rosary – looking very official who were soliciting for the “poor” on the bridges near Piazzale Roma. As a rule, monks do not stand on the street and beg. In an effort to control these unwanted solicitors, the Veneto Region has begun a campaign to disband the encampments of the clans of zingari (gypsies, known locally as Blackbeards because the head of the clan wears black and has a beard) with the head of the group who sends out his band of thieves and beggars each morning, including babies and old ladies, like pendolini (Italian slang for commuters). At night they return giving all they have begged or stolen to the boss, who in turn is padding his bank accounts out of Italy. Organized crime at its lowest level – it’s hundreds of years old. However, as it turns out begging is not a crime in Italy, so the local municipalities are having trouble controlling the presence of these groups. So, even though I say Venice is the safest city in the world, it is not without it’s unsavory characters. As a tourist in a strange place, you are always a target.Hint:(1) Avoid the train station in Mestre (the last stop before Venice). A large band of gypsies are making even locals passage difficult. (2) Keep your valuables near you, most of all your passport. Don’t have anything in your back pockets.(3) If you are arriving/departing by train, get out of the station as quickly as possible. If you must wait, there are several nearby cafes, spend a few Euro to be safer. (4) Be sure your purse is zipped closed at all times, if you are in line to purchase an item, put your money away and close your purse before you walk away. Google
The glass factories of Murano have long been a tourist favorite to visit and watch a small horse being made. The maestro (though usually not a maestro, rather a production glass blower who has been hired to demonstrate to the tourist). The major work goes on in the furnaces off the main streets in Murano. It is dangerous work, timing is key and the production furnaces have schedules to meet for the wholesale buyers around the world. Even so, the magic of creating a horse out of a ball of molten glass is still entrancing. (On the left are some of the very low tech tools used to produce the beautiful and intricate products.) Tourist Demonstrations:
Here is a typical tourist demonstration piece, but note that it stands on a drawing for production products. They make it look so easy, effortless, and tourist standing away from the heat hardly realize the intensity of the furnace or the dangers lurking. The glass burns your body instantly upon contact. In the US and elsewhere, the glass blowers wear protective coatings, gloves, and specially coated glasses. In Murano they sport le ciabatte, bedroom slippers, shorts and that Italian flair. But don’t be fooled by their apparent casual appearance, they know the dangers, it’s experience not carelessness! It is a carefully orchestrated routine they follow, all at the command of the maestro who has total control. How does one become a glassblower?In the US and elsewhere, it is most often through the Industrial Arts programs at colleges. There are some marvelous glassblowers and it’s a love of the glass and a draw of the furnace. When I studied glass blowing, at a local university and from the first day of the class it was a clear divide of students: those who were absolutely horrified of the heat and intensity and those who were infatuated and drawn to the furnace. Count me among the latter.
In Murano, it’s the luck of being born there, and especially if you are born into a family of glass blowers. The older blowers (now nearing retirement) often began working when they were in their ‘teens to help support their family, learning on the job and never finishing school. It takes years of experience to become a maestro and not everyone makes it. One of our closest friends went to work at 9 years old cleaning in the furnace until he was strong enough to do other work. He bought his own furnace in his early 20s and became a spokesperson for the industry throughout the world. It was his passion, like so many in Murano of the famous glass blowers. Below in the “muffler” or annealing oven are lampshades in the front and wine glasses in the back. They gradually bring the blown glass temperature down to prevent cracking. Want to study glassblowing:Check your local colleges for classes, but be prepared to spend long hours working as an apprendista. Many schools offer the course as continuing education. It is both a trade and an art. A quick search on the web can give you results as does GlassArtSociety http://www.glassart.orgGoogle
Every summer in Venice, the vaporetti become over-crowded with tourist, the boat stops jammed with people from every country, all speaking different languages and very few who know where they want to go or how to get there. Mix this with the locals who absolutely know where they want to go and unlike anywhere else in Italy, they want to be punctual. They want the boats to be punctual. But this years there is even more to complicate travel. The problems this year began a couple of weeks ago when the ACTV, the city and company which runs the transport system, laguna and terra ferma (lagoon and land) boldly cancelled the union contracts of all the ACTV. Some had been in place for up to 40 years. However, like public transportation, public services around the world, the pension plans, the overtime, and the salary increases are causing grave problems for the cities. So, they simply cancelled the contracts! A bold move, especially for Italy.
In turn, the drivers and attendants (the guys who open and close the gate on the vaporetto) are in a “slow down” mode. They have always had strike days (with no apparent reason) announced well in advance as to start and stop of the time. But now, it’s random with the slow down being more of a problem. For some people who live in out of the way places, unaccessable by walking (swimming could be an option) but Guidecca, Saint’ Erasmo, Torcello, Burano, other small islands and even Lido absolutely require a boat. The residents are being tortured by the scheduled boats never showing, or two in a row and sometimes not stopping. The discussion (blame placing) is the same as in every city. Only now the ACTV, who one month ago was crying that the tourist were not taking the vaporetto and a shortage would be in the city coffers, now are complaining that the slow schedules are due to tourist who are jamming the boat stops. The residents asked for the usual “residents only” lines to be put into service, but the ACTV says it has not the money to operate these additional lines. Last week after a couple of successively missed, boats not stopping, over crowded boats, some residents threatened to take control of the boat, in a scene which could be played in an Italian opera. La polizia (the police) were called to break up the row. Imagine a local citizen driving the vaporetto, that should be fun. So if you are a wide-eyed tourist experience Venice for the first time, maybe it is better you walk. It is good for you. You can’t get lost. And you’ll see some really wonderful parts of Venice while the city and the union sort things out. And fortunately there are only a few weeks of summer left!Google
Update on Venice 2013: Visiting Venice is easier than ever, though more expensive than ever as the hotels have increased their room rates for the summer for the tourist season by as much as 36% according to a local source. To save some money, you can buy some tickets on line in advance. In addition to saving money, the benefit of buying on line is generally you can shop in your language and you save a lot of time avoiding the lines. Prepare Before Going:The web has some great sites on things to do and one we especially is:Venice Connected. The site is available in 6 languages, it gives you a wealth of information about visiting Venice, including such necessities as “Public Restrooms in Venice” and how they operate, where they are located, important information as Venice is a city with decades old toilet facilities. If you are not near these public facilities, most bars will have a toilet and for the cost of a drink, you can use it without being harassed or annoying the owners, though they may be small or even the occasional Turkish Toilet (where you stand on the footprints). Bars are everywhere, they are not bars in the American sense. They serve coffee, small sandwiches, and of course wine and other alcoholic beverages. Children can go into these ” bars.” Small gift shops will not have toilets. Tickets for the Vaporetto:A one-way ticket on the Vaporetto cost 6 Euro (approximately $9 US) and is good only in one direction and 60 minutes. That’s a pretty steep price and makes the Tourist cards look very reasonable. You can buy online before your go, avoiding the lines and without ever speaking one syllable of Italian. Take a look at the time you will be there. You take the vaporetto in Venice not only to save time but energy and besides the scenery along the canals can only be seen from a boat. iMOB: Electronic Tickets:The benefit of having a pass is that you can pick up the vaporetto at any stop and it’s a great way for crossing the canal instead of walking a half mile. Since the introduction of the iMOB, the electronic ticket. You need to hold your ticket over the meter at the entrance of the vaporetto station. You must do this each and every time you board, otherwise there is the possibility of a fine. Venice Connected website will let you buy your ticket online. To view the schedules (and yes they are generally on time) visit the ACTV site. Venice Card – Reduced Fares for MuseumsIt gives you free entrance to a number of Municipal Museums, like the Doge’s Palace, Museo Corret, Ca’ Rezzonicio, Palazzo Mocenigo, Ca’ Pesaro, the Glass Museum, the Lace Museum and Museum of Natural History (houses in the Fondato Turkish. Many other sights and museums offer reduced admissions with the card. Again, the benefit is saving you time from standing in lines. You can buy online before you go at HelloVenezia. Reminder: If you buy your passes on line, be sure you print and take the email with you. Printing in Venice will occupy your valuable time as you search for a place to print. The 55th Biennale of VeniceFrom 1 June until 24 November 2013 the city of Venice is submerged in “art”. The art is placed all around the city and some of it takes a bit of convincing as to the nature of the art. However, 88 countries are represented and it’s worth a bit of time to explore some of the pavilions.Many exhibits are outside in squares and totally free. Those which are housed in a palazzo give you the added value of seeing inside these amazing places. For more information on museums in Venice click on the picture. The opening on 1 June brought out the mega-yatchs and socialites, with all the berths occupied along the water front. The main offices are in the Ca’ Giustinian, a short distance from San Marco Square with large exhibits at the Central Pavilion in the Giardini. (Boat Stop: Giardini). The Biennale is held on even years. The art is avant-garde, and may defy your vision of art, but never boring! Internet Access: These little shops tend to come and go. There are fewer people who need a computer as more people use their mobile phone for texting and accessing the web. The one which I have used over the years is in Cannaregio, not terribly far from the train station. From the station, (coming out facing the canal), go left down Lista di Spagna and continue through Campo S. Geremia. Cross over the Ponte de le Guglie and it is on the right just where the outdoor market, Mercato Rionale, begins. Hours are (hopefully) 9:30 to about 9 p.m. (It changes seasonally.) A couple of Things Not to Do (not in order of gravity):1. Do not sit on the door way, or window of stores and apartment buildings for a picnic.2. Do not sit in the seats on the vaporetto clearly marked with pictures of elderly people, handicapped people, and mothers with babies.3. Do not block the aisles of the vaporetto with suitcases and strollers, or occupy the seats with the same.4. Do not throw anything into the canals, including cigarettes. (Now you may see some ill-behaved locals doing this. But you should not!)5. Do not stand outside on the vaporetto blocking entrance and exit. We all know you want to get the best possible picture, but locals just want to get home. Things New in Venice:Sephora! While I am not usually the fan of the every city having exactly the same shops and will complain greatly, Sephora is a necessity I rejoiced to see open. It is between the train station and Piazzale Roma (same side). Seems like every trip I forget something, imagine my happiness when I saw this American mall fixture right in Venice. The train station is under upgrading, hopefully to be completed for the summer season. Meanwhile, it is a bit confusing, so give your self plenty of time if you want to buy tickets. The little café has moved and while not a huge improvement, appears to have more items travelers need. You can still get a cappuccino and sandwiches with a small space for sitting. Arriving in Venice by Train: Be careful that your destination is St. Lucia, Venezia, not Mestre. If the destination says Mestre, the train will not arrive in Venice and will depart for parts unknown, like Milano, Trieste, Udine or further. You will have to get off in Mestre and catch another train to Venice. There are literally hundreds daily, but it is a hassle to get your luggage off the train, up and down the steps to find another train, remembering that the train only stops for 3-5 minutes there. Once you arrive at St Lucia Venezia, you will most likely still need to take the vaporetto to somewhere close to your hotel. Just outside the train station along the canal, there are 5 boat stops. Some going each way up and down the canal. (A hint here is that the boat points in the direction it will go!) When you walk out of the train station (facing the canal) to your left is the direction of San Marco and to your right is the direction of Piazzale Roma, Tronchetto and the cruise terminal. Arriving in Venice at the Airport: Here the issue is to be sure which airport. Marco Polo is the international airport with arrivals/departures to the US and to most other European cities. However, when you reach Marco Polo, you are still a good hike and a boat ride away from Venice, or you could catch a Pullman to Piazzale Roma. For the bus, be sure to buy your ticket inside the airport, then just walk out the doors to the street.Take the bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma:You can buy your tickets for the ACTV (pubic transportation) at the Hello Venezia kiosk inside the airport until 8 p.m. most every day. There is a better view of this picture on the ACTV website explaining the routes. You can take the #5 directly from the airport to Piazzale Roma. If you need to get to the train station in Mestre from the airport, there are also buses for that route. Once you reach Piazzale Roma, you will most likely need to take a Vaporetto to get near your hotel. Take a Water Taxi: Even if you take a water taxi, it is about 1/4 mile from the airport to the dock, which you must walk, rain or shine. So rethink your packing! You can arrange the taxi inside the airport or when you reach the dock. Depending on how many people and luggage you have, and of course location of the hotel, a taxi may be your best option. Alilaguna tickets are 14 Euro one way from the airport to Venice. A taxi will be somewhere between 100 Euro and 150 Euro, but generally can get you quite close to the hotel. Print your hotel reservation and show it to the taxi driver. Alilaguna (do a little research on their website, at least you’ll know what the boat looks like) which is less expensive than a taxi. Be careful which line you get on. Look on the map and know which stop and line are closest to your hotel. Carrying luggage over several bridges because you took the wrong boat will put you in a grumpy mood! You can buy a ticket online before you go, but you must take the voucher to one of their ticket booths, so it only waste time, you can always pay also on the boat. There is a ticket booth conveniently located dockside. Do look at your airline schedule and make sure that Alilaguna is operating when you arrive and that upon your return, it will arrive at the airport in time for check-in. A taxi is your only alternative for 6 a.m. flights as the first boat does not depart Venice until about 6a.m. The same is true if your flight arrives very late. Treviso is the regional airport used by Wizz Air, Ryan Air, and other low cost airlines. Treviso is 40Km from Venice. There are frequent buses from Treviso to Venice and if you fly on Ryan Air, you can book their Pullman directly through their site. Be sure to get your luggage and head immediately for the departure point as it has a strict time schedule. You could also hire a taxi – which will be faster but much more expensive. Or you could hire a taxi to take you to the train station where you could catch a local to Venice. General Reminder for all Travelers:Passports: Make a copy of your passport and keep it with you. In the event you somehow loose your passport, a copy will expedite your ability to replace it. It is also safer to carry this copy around with you. Remember that in Italy everyone is required to carry a card of identity with them at all times. Credit Cards: For your credit cards, stash a list of numbers to call (from outside the country) in case of loss and the card numbers. It makes reporting them to your credit card companies a whole lot easier. For more read our earlier post on Visiting Venice and MuranoGoogle
Ok, so if you declared your love in Venice by attaching a small padlock to any bridge, be prepared for the removal of your lucchetti dell’amore. They have removed some 600 last week and are prepared to remove the more than 2,500 on the Accademia bridge alone. But, it seems they reappear almost as fast as they are removed. (See Previous Post)
( Looking through the Bridge to the Franchetti Palazzo) Some locals are outraged over what they consider to be vandalism. Frankly, I find it charming. Now I often write the Don’t Do this list for tourist which is basically about having respect for the older local population. Do not throw trash into the canals nor rubbish on the streets. Do not sit on someone’s doorstep eating your Panini. Do not sit in the spaces on the boat reserved for the elderly or pregnant, surely you can see the pictures and understand. Do not talk about the locals as though they do not have ears or understand and speaking louder will not help translations! But the idea that two people pledge their love for each other on a bridge somehow just does not fit in my Do Not list. The Venetians do become jaded with the tourist. However they do want and need the tourist and the money they bring. So, knowing the practical Venetian, I am amazed that they have not found a way to save the locks, all the while making money on it. By now they should know they can’t beat this fad, so they should just consider how to capitalize on it. (I’ll let you know whey they do!)
