Pastry and Coffee Spots in Venice

Here’s a list if some if my favorite places in Venice. While Venice is not a large city, there are numerous small Pasticceria around the six sestieri (six zones). As I am usually there to work, my selections come from the area where we rent an appartment and my path to Murano.
Il Cafe Florian:
The Oldest Coffee Shop in Italy stands in Piazza San Marco. It opened in 1720 by Florian Francescone.

It is expensive, but one of the great places to enjoy the history and scenery. Lord Byron, Marcel Proust, Charles Dickens and Casanova all have enjoyed the service at this great cafe.  Don’t worry the menu is in multiple languages.



Rosa Salva:

Not only is Rosa Salva a great pastry shop/small caffe, they also send their tasty breakfast rolls throughout Venice and Murano to the many bars and restaurants. They have 3 locations by their own name in Venice:  San Marco, Calle Fiubera which is the headquarters; San Marco, Mercerie (near Rialto) and Campo San Giovanni e Paolo, near the hospital and Fondamenta Nove. They are known also for their wedding cake production and their fritelle (in Carnival Season). The picture is of the main location.

Tonolo:
One of the busiest shops in all of Venice. It is situated in the heart of the city and among the absolute best for fritelle. It is in Dorodura , # 3764 near the Friar church.

 Here you must learn the art of sliding through the crowd, recognizing when you are being asked what you want, and when served. It is standing room only most of the time.

Pasticceria Dal Mas: It is near the train station on Lista de Spagna, and for me is the #1 for Fritelle. It has no sitting room, but the pastry and coffee is superb. It is a great place for a quick breakfast (colazione). And it’s strategic location makes it on my morning stops as it is near the boatstops, the train station and Piazzale Roma and for a quick afternoon macchiato.

Below are some terms you’l need and some rules to consider: 1) Pasticceria – where pastries are made – sometimes they also serve coffee
2) Paneficio – a bakery for bread, not to be confused with pastry.
3) Cioccolateria production of chocolate and candies.  4) Bar – Unlike other parts of the world, it’s the hub of society. For breakfast, snacks, afternoon coffee, and late night respite.
5) Al Banco or Alla Tavola – There are 2 prices, one for standing at the bar and the second for sitting and being served. (Read Below the Rules on Standing)

HOW TO ORDER:
One Cappuccino:  un cappuccino
Two Cappuccino:  due cappuccini
Latte:  Caffe Latte
Cup of Coffee:  Caffe Americano
Expresso:  Un caffe
Fruit Juice:  Succo di  (whatever you want, arancia is orange juice)
A glass of cold/warm milk:  Un bicchiere di latto freddo/caldo

RULES:
Drinking or Sipping. If you want to leisurely sip your coffee chat with your friends then you had best sit at a table (providing there is one). The counter is reserved for the quick espresso. Note that the Venetians who come in appear to be on the way to a urgent meeting and apparently they are already late.

Paying the Cashier: When you enter a shop, look around quickly. If you see the sign “Cassa” with a person manning this position, then you must order with this person, who yells over to the barista, pay and then proceed to the bar for your drink.

Backpacks: Take them off or you will land someones espresso on them, their friends making them even later for their important meeting and receive very stern looks if not a string of Italian which your phrase book never mentioned. 

Tolerance & Respect: In the last couple of years the cruise ships and tours have increased the number of tourist arriving daily to the city which has had a direct correlation to the decrease in tolerance by locals to what they perceive as rude inappropriate behavior and disrespect to the people who call Venice home and their beloved city.

This is just a short list of the hundreds of great places all around the city to get your coffee. The Bars have hot pastry early in the morning. But you must arrive early to get the best choices. They have small ovens and the pastry is delivered to them where they bake it and serve it to the Venetians who pop in for coffee.  If you have a favorite one, send us your suggestions and questions.

Google

La Befana – Epiphany In Italy

Epiphany is celebrated in various ways across Italy following folklore and traditions. The most famous is La Befana, an old woman who delivers gifts on the 5th of January to good children, filling their socks with presents. Bad children get lumps of coal.

Read our Blog:

Cappuccino, Is it Really That Hard to Make?

My favorite things of Italy start with my morning cappuccino;

Read our Blog on BlogVenice.com  

High Water San Marco Santo Stefano

If you remember our post card for Christmas of the tree by San Marco, here’s the before and after showing you how it looked on before Christmas with all the lights and again on Dec 26, Santo Stefano isolated on an island from the high water.

The high water was announced in plenty of time for locals with the alarms being sounded well in advance of it’s expected arrival. It was projected to reach its maximum at 6 a.m. and according to plans, it should have departed about 9-10ish, just in time for the stores to open (if they planned to open during the holidays).

However, the scirocco (winds which push the water in the Adriatic right into the lagoon) did not subside, so San Marco remained under water for the entire day. With the altitude of San Marco at about 80cm (about 31 inches above sea level), it is one of the lowest places in the city and water begins seeping from under the pavement until the sea level is above the walls and it begins pouring in. The provision was for 115 cm. When the water projected to reach these levels, a siren alerts everyone in the city and the store owners must rush to the stores, day or night, and pick up things on the floor. After the water recedes, there is a lot of work, cleaning the mud as well as disinfecting to prevent mildew.

For More Pictures and stories of Acqua Alta:

Read Wikipedia; Read what Wikipedia has to say

Snow & High Water; Venice is incredibly beautiful in snow, but treacherous with high water

High Water 10-12; It came on the day of the Venice Marathon.

The Highest in 22 Years December 2008, the water was incredibly high.

Note for Venice Travelers: If you are traveling to Venice, you might want to download the very useful app. HighTide Venice. High water in Venice should never deter you from getting around and usually last only a couple of hours. However, high tides are generally accompanied by unpleasant weather, rain and wind.

Throw-away boots are available for about 15US$ and as we heard one tourist say: The best 15$ they ever spent. 

They were enjoying this amazing phenomenon in this very special city.
Google

Selling Your Jewellry

Many of our customers start out making jewelry as a hobby, or because they can’t find original jewelry and don’t want to buy mass produced pieces and sometimes it’s to design around a specific outfit or occasion. Then…their friends or co-workers see their beautiful pieces and start asking for their own jewelry. It’s a pretty common story. Believe me, I understand this as it’s pretty much how we got into the business. I bought some beautiful pieces in Venice and all my friends began asking me to buy for them when I went back. Because we had a son-in-law from the area, we were going back and forth a lot. It you are at this junction, there are so many parts of the business to consider. I recommend selling for a while to this ready-made group of customers, who can give you feedback, let you know if something falls apart, or just doesn’t work. After selling to this close group of people, consider home parties before you sign up for fairs or shows. From your friends, you can branch out without spending a lot. For the home party, you can reward the hostess with a piece of jewelry of her choice. Home parties are still intimate, and friends will help sell your jewelry as they can try on, and admire each other’s choices. The profits you get from this part of your new occupation can go towards stocking your inventory. But don’t over stock on anything, be frugal as you are still learning what your customers like and don’t like.   Google

Sales Tax & You

We all collect and pay sales taxes in the state where we have our business. But how will you manage and pay taxes in 50 states with some 9,600 different tax districts?   This very important bill is being hidden in with other important legislation in the hopes to get it passed without notice by the very people it impacts! Everyone! Read the email from Tod Cohen, Vice President & Deputy General Counsel, Government Relations, eBay Inc.   It’s easy to send your opinion to Congress, Follow this link and submit your signature to stand up for Small Businesses!   Your input is needed, back in the spring, signatures, letters and calls like this stopped its passage. “Dear Ebay Vendor, You may have heard that Congress is considering an Internet sales tax bill called the “Marketplace Fairness Act” that is anything but “fair” for small online businesses. If you want to help us protect small businesses and entrepreneurs from new tax burdens, please get involved now. If the Marketplace Fairness Act is allowed to become law, it could require online sellers like you to collect sales taxes nationwide from the more than 9,600 tax jurisdictions. You could also face the prospect of being audited by tax collectors from other states. On behalf of our eBay community, we are pushing Congress to include meaningful protections for small businesses. Earlier this year, the Senate passed a bill now being considered by the House of Representatives. The good news is that hundreds of thousands of consumers and small business owners contacted Capitol Hill to express their concerns. This public outpouring has resulted in the House taking time to ask much-needed questions about how this bill will impact e-commerce and small businesses like yours. Despite this positive development, the bill’s supporters and their Washington lobbyists still want to get the bill through Congress by attaching it to important pieces of legislation that Congress must pass, such as the government funding and debt ceiling bills. Congress must fix the Senate bill by significantly increasing the small business exemption. That is why we need your help. If you oppose attempts to force an unfair Internet sales tax bill into law, raise your voice and let your representatives in Congress know. Thank you for helping to keep the Internet a fair and open marketplace for all. Sincerely,Tod Cohen Vice President & Deputy General Counsel, Government RelationseBay Inc”. Google

Vajont 50 Years

This year marked the 50th year anniversary of the tragedy of Vajont. They were situated in a remote and beautiful area about 100km northeast of Venice, just beyond Vittorio Veneto along the Piave River valley and the roadway which eventually leads through the Dolomiti to Austria. Looking up at the dam from the valley below does not give you the sense of the size of the landslide. It appears tranquil. It is only when you reach the dam itself that you have the realization of that the mountain is where the lake should be.

 The Dam of Vajont project seemed an ideal location nestled in the Vajont Gouge of two opposing mountains and harnessing the power of the Vajont River before it flows into the Piave River on it’s way to the Adriatic. Never mind that the generations before had named the mountain, Monte Toc, “the mountain that walks ” nor that the area had been devastated in prior centuries by flood or landslides.

 The plans for this project was envisioned in the 1920s but only authorized in 1943 to meet the growing need for industrialization. It was built by SADE (Societa Adriatica di Elettricita) whose engineers completed the engineering analysis, including the landside sites in the facing mountains. It was an ambitious project which included building basins higher in the mountain to feed the lake created by the dam. Construction begin in 1957, based on the older engineering analysis, but by 1959 the mountain began shifting on the side where construction of a road had begun. Three separate studies concluded that the entire side of Monte Toc was unstable and could fall into the lake. But, these analysis were ignored, why and whose fault are still unanswered questions. Or maybe as you read other reports their were business and  political interests which fogged the normal sensibilities of engineers.

 SADE received the ok from Rome and the Italian government in February 1960 to proceed with filling the reservoir, and with the spring thaw in the mountains the water level began to rise. Throughout the summer of 1960, minor landslides occurred. But the water level continued to rise. On 4 November 1960 when the water level was at about 190 meters (620 feet) a large landslide of approximately 800,000 cubic meters (one million cubic yards) fell right into the lake. SADE stopped filling the reservoir and began some plans to build a basin just before the dam which would make it usable in case of further erosion, which by now was foreseeable. They reduced the water level by about 50 metres (160 feet) during this phase.

 However, after this basin was completed, they resumed filling the reservoir and May of 1962, the water level was at 215 meters (705 feet). The locals living in the nearby towns of Erto and Casso were experiencing earthquakes and had become concerned. Their concerns were over ridden by Rome and SADE who received the authorization to fill the dam to its maximum level. By July 1962, even SADE’s engineers were concerned and ran models on the effect of further landslides of Monte Toc into the lake. They concluded that the wave generated by a sudden fall of the side of the mountain could generate a wave large enough to overflow the damn if the water level was within 20 meters of the top of the dam (66 feet). So the decision was made to lower the water level 25 meters. The engineers decided they could “control” the now certain landsides by controlling the level water in the dam, so once again they proceeded to fill the lake. In March of 1963 the dam was transferred from SADE to the newly formed ENEL (still the power company in Italy). SADE was encouraged to transfer the dam as fully operational in order to receive total payment. The spring and summer saw the reservoir almost completely filled and locals became concerned as slides and earthquakes were continuously felt around the dam. Their fears were growing and on 15 September 1963, the entire side of the Monte Toc slide closer to the lake by 22 centimetres (8.7 inches) on one day. By early October, Monte Toc moved 1 meter in one day (3.3 feet). By then it appeared inevitable that the entire mountain would slide into the lake.

 Locals were concerned, but no one sounded the alarm to evacuate the residents or workers. On 9 October 1963, engineers working at the dam noticed trees falling and rocks rolling down into the lake. The water by now had been lowered to the level prior engineering analysis felt would prevent the water overflowing the dam. In fact the engineers were on top of the dam that fateful night, watching mother nature in action as they were confident that the water level was low enough to prevent overflow of the dam. At 10:30 p.m. as the locals below in the village of Longarone watched the World Cup Soccer, unaware of the imminent danger and with no warning by the power company, the entire side of the mountain fell into the reservoir with a speed estimated to be upwards of 110 kilometers (68mph), completely filling up the narrow gorge basin. This catastrophic landslide took only 45 seconds which displaced some 65,000,000 cubic yards of water generating a tsunami with a 250 metre (820 feet) wave of water.

 The washbasin effect of the wave first pummeled the villages of Erto and Casso which were 100 feet higher up on the opposite side of the mountain. The water fell back into the reservoir and like a tsunami crested the top of  the dam destroying the villages below along the Piave valley. In four minutes of wind and terror, almost 2,000 people were killed (including the engineers from ENEL who stood atop the dam watching) and the nearby villages ofLongarone, Pirago, Rivalta, Villanova and Fae were obliterated, turning the land into a flat plain of mud with impact crater some 200 feet deep.

 Some 350 families lost all their members in this 4 minutes of terror and more than 400 children. Within 25 minutes the water was drained from the valley revealing the vast destruction. Today a memorial stands near the entrance to the dam and along the road and memorial are tributes to the children who died and to the workers.

 Oddly enough the dam was not damaged substantially. The design of the dam was a engineering model, the choice of the location was the failure. The geological structure of the area, limestone with clay all sloping towards the lake meant the landslide was guaranteed, just when and how fast was the question. 2013 marked the 50th Anniversary. The Giro d’Italia finished in Vajont to commemorate the anniversary. References:1) University of Wisconsin, Steven Dutch2) Google Map, Vajont Italy3) Seconds from disaster, Mountain Tsunami – Video (Worth Watching)4) Vajont the official site 5) Vajont – the Almost Greek Tragedy  This is worth reading.  KeyWords: Venice, Vajont Dam, Veneto Tourism, Italian HistoryGoogle

Favorite Quotes on Venice

The Grand Tour: In the 17th and 18th Centuries the young wealthy of England and later joined by those of the US, were sent for 2 to 4 years traveling around Europe to broaden their horizons and give them a bit of culture. It became known as the Grand Tour. Probably the beginning of the tour book business and let’s not forget about the tour business.

Venice was on this route for these young aristocrats and on the tour for artists, writers of books and poetry as well. Some of the more famous visitors, indeed, sometimes adopting the city as their own and they had a few things to say.

Some of my favorite:

Truman Capote: “Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.”

Tiziano Scarpa: “Getting lost is the only place worth going.”

Fran Lebowitz:  “If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you’ve imagined. Venice is — Venice is better.”

Henry James: “Though there are some disagreeable things in Venice there is nothing so disagreeable as the visitors.”

Lord Byron: “I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs; / A palace and a prison on each hand.”

Peggy Guggenheim: “It is always assumed that Venice is the ideal place for a honeymoon. This is a grave error. To live in Venice or even to visit it, means that you fall in love with the city itself. There is nothing left over in your heart for anyone else.”

Anonymous: “Venice, the only place where you can get seasick by crossing the street.”

Robert Benchley: “Streets flooded. Please advise.”

Ulysses S. Grant: “Venice would be a fine city if it were only drained.”

Ralph Waldo Emerson: “A city for beavers.”

Erica Jong in “A City of Love and Death: Venice” “But come back in November or December, in February or March, when the fog, la nebia, settles upon the city like a marvelous monster, and you will have little trouble believing that things can appear and disappear in this labyrinthine city, or that time here could easily slip in its sprockets and take you, willingly or unwillingly, back.”

Making Round Murano Glass Beads

The round is our essential bead used in almost all designs. It is the easiest bead to make. You need only a mandrel, a torch and some glass.

 

It all begins with the selection of the glass canes. We use Effetre, known generally in the industry as Moretti. It is a soft glass with a COE of 104, Soda Ash Glass which contains no lead and is worked at temperatures of about 945 C which is about 1733 F.

                 The steps of making the round bead are shown below. 

All you need to make a round beadBegin by winding molten glass around the mandre.
Add Sterling Silver Foil (or 24kt Gold Foil)Encase the foiled bead with transparent Moretti glass.
Using the round tool assures it’s size. And it gives the Murano Glass Bead that nice smooth shape.The final step is reheating the bead so all the glass is the same temperature. This helps prevent cracking.

 While we say that the round is the easiest shape to make, it’s still difficult work sitting in front of the heat, attempting to roll the mandrel in one hand while making sure that the cane is in the heat and wrapping around your mandrel. Well it takes some practice, rather like rubbing your tummy and patting your head at the same time.In Murano, the maestro speak about “knowing” the glass. It is a feel and knowing the exact shade of red you need to be sure the bead is thoroughly heated. Google

How the Nuvola Murano Glass Bead is Made

 This popular Venetian Bead is one of the first beads a bead maker is taught after they learn to make the aventurine beads. The process is similar but with white frit instead of aventurine. The heart made here begins with an aima (body) of clear Murano Glass and is then rolled into a bowl of white roughly ground Murano Glass (frit). As you can see here this heart begins as a gum drop shape which is then formed into the heart using the tools. The tools required to make this bead are few and the technique simple.

 The small anima is rolled in the rough frit to give it the “clouds” appearance. A transparent color of Murano Glass encases the clouds. 

              It’s also easy here to see how the base bead could be formed into many different shapes.Google

Exit mobile version
%%footer%%