Tag: Gold Fill

What is Gold Fill

Learn about Gold Fill: How it is Made, Why Use Gold Fill, Cost Benefits

Gold Plated vs. Gold Filled: Understanding the Key Differences

Gold-filled is one of the best materials for quality jewelry findings because it provides a genuine layer of karat gold, much greater durability than ordinary gold plating, and a substantially lower price than solid gold.

The name is confusing: gold-filled is not filled with gold. It consists of a base-metal core—usually jeweler’s brass—covered with a comparatively substantial layer of real karat gold.

What exactly is gold-filled?

In the United States, material described as gold-filled generally has:

  • A core of brass or another base metal
  • An outer layer of genuine gold alloy
  • Gold mechanically bonded to the core using heat and pressure
  • Gold covering the significant exterior surfaces
  • A gold layer representing at least 1/20, or 5%, of the item’s metal weight

The Federal Trade Commission says the term “Gold Filled” may be used when the mechanically applied gold-alloy layer accounts for at least 1/20 of the weight of the metal in the article. The gold must be at least 10 karat and reasonably durable. The karat fineness must accompany the description. FTC Jewelry Guides, 16 CFR §23.3

Most gold-filled jewelry findings sold in the United States are:

  • 1/20 14K gold-filled
  • Sometimes written 1/20 14K GF
  • Less commonly, 1/20 12K gold-filled

“1/20 14K gold-filled” means that at least 1/20 of the metal weight is 14-karat gold alloy. It does not mean that 5% of the entire item is pure gold.

Because 14K gold is approximately 58.3% pure gold: 5%×58.3%≈2.92%

Therefore, a 1/20 14K gold-filled article contains approximately 2.9% pure gold by metal weight, before any permitted exclusions or manufacturing tolerances.

How gold-filled material is made

Gold-filled findings usually begin as composite sheet, wire or tubing.

1. The metals are prepared

A manufacturer starts with:

  • A base-metal core, usually brass
  • A carefully measured sheet of karat gold alloy

The gold layer may be applied to one side or both sides, depending on the product and manufacturing method.

2. The surfaces are cleaned

The mating surfaces must be extremely clean. Oils, oxides and contamination would interfere with the bond between the gold and base metal.

3. The metals are assembled

The gold-alloy sheet is positioned against the brass core. The relative amounts are calculated so that the finished composite meets its declared gold-to-metal weight ratio.

4. Heat and pressure create the bond

The metals are heated and compressed under substantial pressure. Depending on the process, brazing or another metallurgical bonding method may assist the bond.

The objective is not simply to glue or loosely wrap gold around brass. The process creates a permanent metallurgical bond between the layers.

5. The bonded block is rolled or drawn

Once bonded, the much thicker composite can be:

  • Rolled into thin sheet
  • Drawn into wire
  • Formed into tubing
  • Stamped
  • Cut
  • Shaped into jewelry components

As the material is rolled or drawn, both the base metal and gold layer become thinner while maintaining their calculated proportion.

6. It is made into findings

The composite material can then become:

  • Ear wires
  • Head pins and eye pins
  • Jump rings
  • Clasps
  • Chain
  • Bead caps
  • Wire
  • Tubing
  • Stamped charms and components

Some complicated findings contain soldered joints, springs or internal pieces that may not themselves be gold-filled. Therefore, sellers should obtain the exact material specifications from their suppliers.

Gold-filled versus gold-plated

The most important distinction is how the gold is applied and measured.

MaterialConstructionGold requirementExpected wear
Solid 14K goldGold alloy throughoutAbout 58.3% pure gold throughoutExcellent
1/20 14K gold-filled14K gold mechanically bonded to a base-metal coreGold alloy is at least 5% of metal weightVery good
Rolled gold plateMechanically bonded gold alloyMay be as little as 1/40 of metal weight under FTC guidanceGood, but less gold than GF
Heavy gold electroplateGold deposited electrolyticallyMeasured by coating thickness, not weight ratioBetter than light plating
Ordinary gold plateThin electrolytic gold coatingFar less gold than GF in typical commercial productsHighly variable
Gold vermeilGold plated over sterling silverDefined principally by the silver base, gold fineness and plating thicknessGood, but the coating remains electroplated

The FTC provides a threshold of at least 2.5 microns of fine-gold equivalent for “heavy gold electroplate,” while gold-filled is evaluated by its mechanically bonded layer and weight ratio. FTC Jewelry Guides

It is not accurate to say that every gold-filled item is a particular number of times thicker than every gold-plated item. Gold plating varies enormously. The reliable distinction is that qualifying gold-filled material has a substantial, mechanically bonded layer with a defined weight relationship.

Who owns the patent?

The short answer is: no person or company currently owns a general patent giving it exclusive rights to make gold-filled metal.

Gold-filled is now an established manufacturing category, not a proprietary brand or currently exclusive invention. Individual companies may have patents covering particular modern improvements, alloys, bonding procedures, equipment or component designs, but no one owns “gold-filled” as a whole.

The best-supported historical account identifies John Turner of Birmingham, England, who received an English patent in 1817 for an improvement in applying gold to brass or copper so that the composite metal could be mechanically rolled into sheets.

Turner’s work developed from the earlier Sheffield plate process. In 1743, Thomas Boulsover had discovered a way of bonding silver to copper. Turner adapted this general clad-metal principle to gold and base metal. A technical paper from the Santa Fe Symposium describes Turner’s 1817 material as the first gold clad over base metal in Great Britain and the beginning of gold-filled and rolled-gold sheet, wire and tubing. Santa Fe Symposium technical paper

You may see online articles claiming that an “Anthony Poliakoff” obtained the first gold-filled patent in 1856, or that “Christopher B. Hughes” invented the process. I could not verify those claims in dependable patent or historical records. The 1817 John Turner account is substantially better documented.

Any patent issued in 1817 would, of course, have expired generations ago.

Why gold-filled is a good choice

It looks like karat gold

The visible surface is genuine karat gold alloy—not merely gold-colored metal. High-quality 14K gold-filled findings coordinate beautifully with 14K gold jewelry and have the warm, refined appearance customers expect from genuine gold.

It lasts much longer than ordinary plating

Because the gold layer is substantial and mechanically bonded, it normally withstands regular handling and wear much better than thin electroplating.

A metallurgical study presented at the Santa Fe Symposium found that 1/20 gold-filled clad material showed reliable resistance to prolonged normal wear across practical material thicknesses. Mechanical clad versus electroplate study

Its actual life still depends on:

  • How often it is worn
  • Skin chemistry
  • Perspiration
  • Friction
  • Exposure to chlorine, salt water, cosmetics and household chemicals
  • The thickness and construction of the particular component

It should not be advertised as “never wears off” or “lasts forever.”

It offers excellent value

Gold-filled occupies a useful position between inexpensive plated findings and solid gold:

  • More expensive than ordinary gold plate
  • Far less expensive than solid 14K gold
  • Durable enough for quality artisan jewelry
  • Appropriate for jewelry intended to be kept and worn regularly

This is especially valuable for VenetianBeadShop jewelry. Authentic Murano glass deserves a finding that feels more permanent and valuable than inexpensive flash-plated metal, but solid gold would make many designs prohibitively expensive.

It can be formed like jewelry metal

Gold-filled sheet and wire can generally be:

  • Cut
  • Wrapped
  • Coiled
  • Hammered carefully
  • Formed
  • Soldered by an experienced jeweler

However, aggressive filing, deep scratching, repeated abrasion or careless soldering can penetrate or damage the gold layer and expose the base metal.

It is usually more tarnish-resistant

The gold surface resists tarnish better than bare brass, copper or sterling silver. Nevertheless, the 14K layer contains metals other than pure gold, so it can become dull or discolored under certain conditions. Contamination, solder, exposed brass edges and chemical exposure can also cause discoloration.

Is gold-filled hypoallergenic?

It is safer to say that gold-filled is often well tolerated, rather than guaranteeing that it is hypoallergenic.

A customer may react to:

  • Metals in the 14K gold alloy
  • Nickel, if present in a particular alloy or component
  • Exposed brass at cut edges or worn areas
  • Solder used in fabrication
  • Springs or internal mechanisms in clasps

For ear wires, supplier confirmation that the material is nickel-free is more meaningful than a broad “hypoallergenic” claim.

How customers should care for it

Recommend that customers:

  • Wipe the jewelry with a soft cloth after wearing
  • Wash occasionally with mild soap and lukewarm water
  • Dry it thoroughly
  • Store pieces separately to prevent scratching
  • Avoid abrasive polishing compounds
  • Remove it before swimming in chlorinated pools
  • Minimize contact with perfume, hairspray, lotion and household cleaners

A gentle nonabrasive jewelry cloth is preferable to a harsh metal-polishing cloth.

Silver Fill versus Sterling Silver

The patent on Gold Fill (process which is the same as Silver Fill) was filed in 1900 in Providence Rhode Island, the birthplace of the costume jewelry industry in the United States.

Patent for Gold Fill

In case you weren’t clear on Silver Fill versus Sterling Silver, our Silver Findings are produced from either Silver Ingot or Silver Pebbles which are melted in the process before they are squashed, rolled, squeezed and otherwise manipulated into all those tiny round balls, earwires, charms, tubes or whatever you can think of.

Silver Fill seems an inaccurate name as you can clear see, there is no fill, that is the base metal, the silver sits on the outside.

Example of Silver Fill 1/20 and 1/10

Silver-filled, like gold-filled, consists of precious metal (silver) bonded to a base metal substrate (a red brass alloy, CDA #220). The 1/20 and 1/10 notation refers to the ratio of silver to brass core by weight, which is 5% and 10%, respectively.

The value of silver-filled is greater than silver-plated because silver-filled has an actual layer of sterling silver. The minimum thickness for silver plating is equal to 0.5 microns.

In 1/10 silver-filled, 10% of the total weight of the metal is silver.

In 1/20 silver-filled, 5% of the total weight of the metal is silver.

In single-clad sheet, the silver layer is bonded to one side of the sheet of brass.

In double-clad sheet, discs and other findings, silver layers are bonded to both sides of the sheet of brass.

The patent remains with US producers for Silver Fill and Gold Fill, so even when we buy some of our findings directly from our manufacturers in Italy, they actually trade materials with the US. So forget tariffs, forget International Trade Agreements….the metals houses have their own balance sheets and trading rules. And many of them hold patents on processes. (We’ll write more on that later.)

Melting Silver in Vicenza

Silver Fill became popular when the price of silver soared above $48.00, clearly it was less expensive to use a base metal and silver of only ~10% of the weight. So to meet the demand, Silver Fill findings were produced.

Silver Soared over $40

As you can see now silver fluctuates around $15 which means that the additional work required to bond the silver to the base metal negates real savings.

So once again Silver is popular and many of our suppliers have discontinued the Silver Fill in favor of Silver. When they discontinue Silver Fill, we will also as we sell out the existing inventory.

FTC New Rules for Jewelry – What You Need to Know

As a designer, artist and jewelry maker, it is unlikely you spend a lot of time contemplating the rules laid our by the FTC, Federal Trade Commission, but as persons, partnerships, corporations at every level of the trade who are engages in manufacturing, distributing and the sale of products, you too are subject to these requirements. For the full FTC document for which they seek comments view the FTC Comment Document. Apparently this broad document has been undergoing review since 2012. Note that if you have any comments, they must be submitted by 4 April 2016. You can also review any comments on the FTC Website as they pursue their charter to promote competition and protect and educate consumers.

The new “rules” reflect revisions to existing interpretations of:

  1. Surface application of precious metals (i.e., platings)
  2. Products containing more than one precious metal (Vermeil, Silver and Gold Fill)
  3. Alloys with precious metals below minimum thresholds
  4. Lead-glass-filled stones
  5. Varietals
  6. Cultured Diamonds
  7. Use of the term “gem”
  8. Treatments to pearl products

1.Surface Applications of Precious Metals

Proposal to require a “full” disclosure of the metals in a piece of jewelry, especially when it is an alloy or a plated product. Additionally, to strengthen the durability of surface applications of gold which would basically require at least 22karat gold, rather than the 10 karat which is found in much jewelry on the market. The commission is attempting to make statements based on what consumers may expect regarding the durability of a product. And to require the disclosure of rhodium plating on other precious metals. The jewelry industry uses Rhodium plating to avoid tarnishing of sterling silver.

Gold Plate Comes in Many Colors

2. Products Containing more than 1 Precious Metal

The proposed new section states it is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the relative quantity of each metal. It asvises that descriptions should list precious metals in the order of their relative weight. So it’s all about wordsmithing so that the consumer is not duped.

3. Alloys with precious metals below minimum thresholds

Requires marketing of products to provide truthful information about the precious metal and avoid giving the impression that lessor quality materials will perform as well as higher quality materials.

4. Lead-Glass-Filled Stones

Proposes more accurate description of stones which have been infused with substantial quantities of lead glass. So if the stone has been infused with lead glass, that must be in the description.

5. Varietals

This provides that certain misleading terms must be discontinued. For example “yellow emerald” can not be used to describe a golden beryl and “green amethyst” cannot be used to describe prasiolite.

6. Cultured Diamonds

Diamonds which are laboratory created must state exactly that, i.e., laboratory-grown, manufactured by, synthetic.

7 Misuse of the word “Gem”

Avoid the misuse of Gem names such as Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Topaz, Birthstone or Gemstone.

8 Treatments to Pearl Products

Provide adequate descriptors to disclose treatments, if it is (a) not permanent, (b) has special care requirements (c) has a significant effect on the products value.

In Summary

The changes are aimed at accurate descriptions and names to safeguard the consumer and avoidance of confusing descriptions to products. You just need to label the items you sell honestly and accurately

The final wording is not yet cast, but generally these are the issues. Much of the logic of the FTC is based on what the FTC calls “reasonable expectations” of a customer. Many of their rules are based simply in “Truth in Advertising”, a noble cause, just not an common goal everywhere in the world.

The FTC and it’s rules are aimed at safeguarding the American consumer, but the big question is enforcement in an age where products available in every stores comes from world wide sources where the FTC has no authority.

How to Avoid Problems?

It comes down to knowing and trusting your supplier. It is also why we do not accept returns of Precious Metals findings. We cannot sell resale returns as the testing to verify the metals is too time consuming and expensive.

Take a look at our large selection of Findings.

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