How To & Tutorials - Venetian Bead Shop Blog

Working with Venetian Beads

Our beads are handmade and well, sometimes there are shards of glass left when the mandrels are etched out. I know many people think the holes are “drilled” but that would be so time consuming, hazardous to the health and we would break a ton of beads along the way.

Rather, most of our beads are wound with molten glass over a copper mandrel. The short story here is that in the 20s one of the Murano bead making companies discovered, though exactly how is unknown, that copper would be consumed when exposed to nitric acid. Before that time, the beads were made on mandrels dipped in “fango” mud from the lagoon. So alas, the US did not discover bead release. This new process relieved workers from dipping countless rods in the fango (and obviously displaced some workers). Over time the new process required more sophisticated machines, and the environmental problems came to light. Now, the copper is recovered and the nitric acid must be recycled in environmentally friendly process.

Some of the beads are more prone to this than others. Any bead with avventurina or Calcedonia, and our Nuvola beads tend to have more shards. The Nuvola have small polverized opaque white in them representing the “clouds”. Opaque glass, Avventurina and Calcedonia are more dense and melt at a different temperature than our transparent glass, so they tend to escape the bead. This etching process leaves small shards of glass as the copper is etched out. There are a couple of ways you can work this as you make jewelry.

Our PerlaVita Beads and sometimes those which have silver foil, we use the traditional coatings on stainless steel rods. It just takes longer and while you might not think about it, the consistency of the bead release makes the rod slightly larger or even a little lopsided. So we have to be more careful.

Beadcaps

They hide uneven surfaces and protect the wire or thread you are using as they provide a buffer between the glass and the thread. Classic Venetian Jewelry always had little beadcaps between the knots. They knew this was a good way to prevent the rough edges from cutting the thread (at least not right away). Even pearls will eventually cut the thread – as we all learn!

Classic Venetian Mosaic Bracelet Hand Knotted

Bead Reamer

We use the simple bead reamer on most all our beads when we are making jewelry. It takes just a minute and assures us that we have an even surface with which to work. Always wear glasses when you are using the bead reamer (both the manual one and the electric one). As little particles are thrown in the air. Don’t be afraid to work with the beads. It is good to dip them in water often as you are using the bead reamer (which is really a file) as this prevents heat build up and prevents loosing the lustre of the bead. You can even use this if you want to make the hole a little (very little) larger.

Round Diamond Drill

Less expensive, just as useful. You can find these at most hardware stores. Buy the diamond variety as it will last longer.

For the Serious Beader: – A Dremel

This is an investment you’ll use for years. I confess this is my “goto” for most everything. I can drill through plexiglass to make fixtures for our pictures. I can use the tool to clean the edges around the holes of our handmade beads. It is lightweight and rechargeable. You’ll have to order because I have not found it in hardware stores. Holes in leather, in stamping blanks. It also comes with a wire brush which has it’s own uses. (Sorry we do not sell them, but if you are interested I can give you some places to look.)

They all do the same job, make the holes nice and smooth. And make your beadcaps sit nicely for a well made piece of Venetian Glass Jewelry. Best of Luck!

Which Direction does the Hole Go?

Ever so often a customer’s question reminds us that while we are familiar with our beads, and what appears to us to be obvious is definitely NOT, especially to new beaders!

We learn from all your questions. And a picture is always a good idea. So, here are a couple of tips on using our authentic Murano Glass Beads. Click on the pictures to go to the website where you can not only buy the beads, but you can download and print a PDF which includes components needed and basic instructions.

Squares, Rectangles

Use can use them vertically or horizontally. When we think of these often we think about making bracelets where they certainly lay end to end. But if we show them in the picture with the holes horizontal, it doesn’t mean you can’t turn it so the hole goes vertically. This is how we use for earrings.

And for bracelets, they are simply turned on the side. Here’s a design where we used these same beads in a bracelet.

Rounds, Ovals, Coins

The same applies to rounds and ovals and our coins. If the hole goes through the center, then it can be used easily for both bracelets and earrings.

And you can make matching earrings as well.

Fused Murano Pendants – Peek Inside Our Supplier’s Laboratory

One of our favorite Fusion laboratories is pretty much a one-man show. He is young, very precise and very energetic. Fusion is a lot like baking cookies. You cut the dough, you cook the dough and you decorate. Only it takes skill and patience, diamond saws, lost of dust and you best be careful.

The glass arrives from the furnace in Murano in large square sheets, which must be cut into workable pieces. Each piece goes through at least two firings. So if you have ever worked in ceramic, you will have an idea of the process.

These sheets neatly arranged have already been through the first step. They are now ready to cut into shapes and slump if needed. Don’t you love how they are so organized. This is one of the wonderful things about this facility.

Sawing and Sanding are Two Important Steps

Sawing and Sanding are two important, if dirty, dusty steps in getting the perfect pendant. His careful attention to these assure us of great quality Murano Glass Pendants.

Murano Glass Fused Pendants and More Kilns

These kilns are used in the first step and you can see some pendants in process on the table. The decorations (colors, millefiori, gold and silver) are done in sandwich style on a base layer of Murano glass. Frit, small pieces of glass, add color as do the millefiori. After this first step the sheets will be ready for cutting and the second step.

With glass we are taking to the melting point so that the small pieces fuse together. This is done as a flat sheet. Here you see a kiln prepared for the 2nd firing, called slumping in English. This firing only heats just before the melting point, staying at this range until the glass relaxes into the shapes. Then it is cooled very slowly, called annealing. Behind you see stacks of moulds for other shapes.

The world of Glass in Murano and Venice requires many different skills and equipment but always at the heart is the beautiful Murano Glass.

You can shop for these hand crafted Murano Glass Pendants on our webstore: VenetianBeadShop

How To Use a Crimp Tube

Using a crimp tube is an easy way to finish off your beading wire securely. It does take a little practice, but done properly, it also look professional. I prefer to use a wire protector along with the crimp. Be sure you thread the crimp on before you thread the wire through the wire protector and then back through the crimp. I also like to carry the wire through the first bead. As you can see in the instructions below. While it may not be needed for strength, I prefer the finished look.

But How do you crimp the tubes.

To propertly complete the crimp tube, Continue with these instructions. See the closeup for how the wires should be separated for a strong crimp.

Make Sure the two Wires are Separated as Shown Here

Using the crimp tube is a great and easy way to secure your jewelry, but to really finish off your jewelry, we suggest using the Crimp Bead which hides the tube. It appears as just a small silver or gold bead at each end of your jewelry.

Here’s how to add the Crimp Bead. Visit our blog

These small details mean the difference between a classy finish of your jewelry and distinguish your bead work as elegant rather than a hastily crafted piece.

You can fine Crimp Tubes on our Website. We have a variety of sizes and materials to match your designs and the tools you need: SHOP NOW

My goal is to always have the jewelry I make look like it came from Tiffany’s!

How To Use a Crimp Cover

Crimping is an easy way to finish off your beading wire to make it secure, however the result in a flat tube which sits next to the ends of your jewelry. Sometimes those little tubes have rough edges which just drive you nuts as they rub against your neck.

So I always add add a Crimp Cover. First it looks better, it appears to be a small 2 or 3mm bead at the end of your string instead of a piece of hardware and second, it eliminates any rough edges that may be left when you crimp and make it smoother to wear.

Here’s how to add the Crimp Bead. It’s basically a little clam shell that you close around the crimp tube.

You can find our selection of crimp covers online at VenetianBeadShop.

These small details mean the difference between a classy finish of your jewelry and distinguish your beadwork as elegant rather than a hastly crafted piece.

Don’t forget you can find tons of free designs, right on our website in our Design Center, hundreds of ideas to make your own Venetian Glass Jewelry.

Check out our Design Center – Free Instructions

Looks Like Tiffany’s – made by ME!

What Size Crimp Should I Use in my Venetian Jewelry?

Here’s a question we hear often. Frankly I am guilty of using the wrong size often and then wondering why the wire slipped out of my piece, so it’s also good for us to review the sizing. We made this little chart to help explain why it is important. If you use a crimp tube which is too large it will not hold the wire tightly and ultimately the crimp could slip and your jewelry break. Using too small crimps will result in an inadequate alignment of the wire and again the necklace or bracelet will break. Crimp Tubes are available both in Gold Fill and Sterling Silver.

Why use a crimp? Well you need a way to secure beading wire such as our SoftFlex or Beadalon.
What about the sizes of wire?
What Crimp for each size of wire?

Beadalon and SoftFlex recommend the following, note that each one uses slighty different diameters of wire. But it’s easy to see they are not significantly different in size.

Beadalon Wire Size (Inches)	Softflex (Inches)	Wire in MM	Crimp Tube Size MM
0.010	0.010	.25mm	1×1
0.012		.30mm	1×1
0.013		.33mm	1×1 or 2×2
	0.014	.356mm	2×2
0.015		.38mm	2×2
0.018		.46mm	2×2
	0.019	.483mm	2×2
0.020		.51mm	2×2
0.021		.53mm	2×2
0.024	0.024	.61mm	2×2 or 2×3

Our authentic Murano Glass beads have a nominal hole size of 1mm, so for our smaller 6, 8 and 10mm beads we would use the .014 up to the .019 depending on how heavy the necklace is. For our larger beads 12mm and above, we prefer the .021 and the .024 to hold our chunky Venetian Beads as the glass gets heavy.

Crimping is an easy way to finish off your beading wire. Done properly, it also look professional. I prefer to use a wire protector along with the crimp. Be sure you thread the crimp on before you thread the wire through the wire protector and then back through the crimp. I also like to carry the wire through the first bead.

You can find our selection of Crimp Tubes, Crimp Covers, Wire Protectors and the tools you need on our website: Shop Now

My goal is to always have the jewelry I make look like it came from Tiffany’s!

What Sizes are the Holes in Murano Glass Beads?

This is a question every new beader asks when they first encounter Venetian Beads. And then they ask, “What size wire should I use?”

Venetian Beads, Murano Beads

The most common size of holes of Murano Glass Beads is approximately 1mm. Approximate because they are most often made on 1mm diameter copper rods, which heats up and naturally expands. The glass wrapped around it expands as well, but when the glass and the copper cool, they both shrink. So we generally have a ~1mm hole and for larger beads, the mandrel will be larger as the mandrel must support the bead in the fire.

Copper Mandrels on our Venetian Dichroic Beads

We also make beads like our PerlaVita, European Large Hole Beads, Bimbi, our smaller European Large Hole Beads for Children, Duo and 2mm Rondelles which we developed for Leather and they each have different sizing. We make these on stainless steel rods using a bead release to keep the glass from sticking to the rods. Bead Release was used in Venice prior to the 1920s and was called “fango” meaning mud because it came from the lagoon. Bead Release is similar to kiln wash and contrary to popular believe it was not invented by Americans, but they did add graphite to it.

Stainless Steel Mandrels Ready for making PerlaVita Beads

So the short answer is that any wire which is less than 1mm can be used for Venetian Beads. The important issue is the weight of a bead. So larger beads from 16mm up through our 30 and 40mm beads will need a larger gauge wire. Venetian/Murano Beads will always be slightly abrasive around the edges. This is not a defect, simply how the beads are made.

Bracelets or Necklaces?

Bracelets will require a heavier gauge because bracelets are much more active and get more abuse than a necklace. Necklaces, especially those with Swarovski or small beads can be strung on a smaller gauge because they will not be subjected to as much stress.

Beadalon and SoftFlex

We carry wire from both Beadalon and SoftFlex, which are the standard setters in the beading industry. SoftFlex is produced in the US and much of Beadalon is also produced in the US, though they also import, each spool of wire will tell you the place of manufacture. Beadalon is part of a larger corporation which manufacturers fishing line. So your beading wire’s not-so-distant relative is fishing line! And probably the reason each line has a “pound” weight limit – so if you are fishing for really big fish, you need a heavier gauge line. If you are stringing large bead, you need a heavier gauge wire!

Strands of Wire

You will notice that both Beadalon and SoftFlex have different number of strands.The more strands in the wire, the more it can flex without breaking – and the more strands in the wire, the higher the pricing.

SoftFlex Label

The SoftFlex Label on the wire gives you a wealth of information, including recommendations for use of each type wire.The wire shown is 49 Strands with a 26 pounds test strength, and a diameter of .019 Inches which is .48mm. Since our Venetian Beads are generally 1mm holes, this is a good choice.

Wire Gauges are confusing!

The larger the number – the smaller the wire

QUICK CONVERSIONS

Unraveling the Mystery of Gauges of Wire

We often hear from customers that they just don’t understand wire gauges. It is confusing,and we can blame it on “Brown & Sharpe” who established the AWG standardized wire gauge system for the American market in 1857 and was mainly used to describe the diameters of electrically conducting wire. They had no idea that jewelers would be using this slightly mind bending system.

By definition, 36 AWG is 0.005 inches in diameter, and 0000 AWG is 0.46 inches in diameter. So you get the picture, the larger the number, the smaller the wire. Other countries simply use the metric system with the wire being described in millimeters.

The nominal size of the holes in our Authentic Venetian Beads is 1mm, because as a rule we use a 1mm mandrel in our lampwork beads. We like to work with the 19 Gauge as it is strong enough for our Murano Glass Beads. For Swarovski Crystals, you will want to use about 14 Gauge.

We do make larger size holes for specific uses, like our PerlaVita line of large hole European Bracelet Beads and our beads for leather, like our Murano Glass beads for RegalizTM.

If you have any other suggestions or questions, drop us a note. We’ll do our best to answer. ;>)

Matte Your Own Venetian Beads

One of our favorite ways to make a piece of Murano Glass Jewelry come alive is to use matte beads which gives you a contrast between our shiny Venetian Beads and the soft glow of the matte beads, a luster which resembles a Mother of Pearl glow. There are couple of ways to achieve this look, sandblasting, tumbling but the quickest, less expensive method is with etchall® a trademarked product sold in Stain Glass shops and some hobby shops.

We do sell some of our beads matted, but since it’s so easy, we think you’ll enjoy doing this in your workshop. It is also a cost saver as you do not need to buy both matte beads and the shiny beads, just buy the shiny and matte as you work.

To begin with, we use only etchall® Dip ‘n Etch, which you can find on our website in 4 oz bottles. Shop Now

It begins as a clear liquid but with use it turns dark as you can see in our bottle here as well. The color does not affect the ability to etch the glass.

For our Murano Glass (COE 104) it takes between 15 and 25 minutes to obtain that soft luste. Other types of glass you will need to experiment to find the optimal time.

We work with a much larger bottle of the liquid and pour into a small plastic (because it does not etch plastic) water bottle so that we can agitate easily and watch the process. Then we pour the liquid back into our larger container using a tea strainer to capture the now matte beads.

Rinse the beads thoroughly and allow to air dry.

NOTE: be sure to shake the container every couple of minutes to be sure the coverage is all over the bead. If you do not, you will have small marks where the beads touched, as the touching prevents the liquid from completely covering the bead.

NOTE: Do not use on any of our exterior foil beads as it will etch off the Gold Foil, Silver Foil.

Small Print

We would be remiss if we did not caution you about its use.

Do Not allow children to use.
Use on: glass, mirror, ceramic, porcelain, marble, or slate.
Re-usable: Yes
Disposal: Will not harm plumbing. Flush with plenty of water.
Wear gloves to protect your hands and certainly you do NOT want your jewelry to touch this.
Wear protective eye wear to prevent splashes which could damage your eyes
With use it will become discolored, but it still works.
Temperatures below 65F (18C) may form crystals. If this happens place closed container in warm water for several minutes.
NEVER PUT IN A MICROWAVE
Caution: Will etch porcelain sinks and tubs. Neutralize with water and baking soda before disposing in porcelain or ceramic sinks.
Consider yourself fairly warned that etching is NOT reversable.

Make Your Own French Ear Wires

We just added this quick little tool from Beadalon to make your own ear wires. It’s inexpensive and comes in so handy when you’ve run out of ear wires and just need a couple.

It is also a good way to use the leftover bits of wire you have in your beading box – you only need a couple of inches for each earwire.

You can find the tool on our website at: EarWire Swoop

You can watch the video by Wyatt White, Product Developer, from Beadalon as he shows you how

You can find this tool and many more at our online store at http://www.venetianbeadshop.com

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